The short version
If the faucet body is solid and you can still get parts for it, repair is almost always the better value. If the body is corroded or cracked, or the brand's parts are discontinued, replace it.
Signs that point to repair
- It drips from the spout but is otherwise in good shape
- One handle is stiff or loose
- Flow is weak at that faucet only
- It's a known brand and parts are easy to find
- It's the first problem you've had with it
These are cartridge, washer, O-ring and aerator jobs. The parts cost little and the faucet usually goes back to working like new. See faucet repair.
Signs that point to replacement
- Green or white crust that keeps coming back, or pitting in the metal
- A crack in the body, or a leak from the body itself rather than a seal
- You've already repaired it once or twice
- The finish is peeling or flaking
- Parts for the brand are no longer made, or the brand is unknown
- You're redoing the kitchen or vanity anyway
See faucet replacement for what's involved.
Age is a hint, not a rule
A well-made faucet can run for decades with an occasional new cartridge. A cheaper one can be tired in five years. Age matters most as context: a lot of Sultan homes built in the 1990s and 2000s still have their original faucets, and at that point a replacement often solves several small annoyances at once.
Questions worth asking
- What exactly failed, and is that part available?
- If we repair it, what's likely to fail next?
- What would a replacement cost compared with the repair?
- Do the shutoff valves under the sink need replacing either way?
That last one comes up often. If the valves are old, they may need attention during either job.
One more thing to check
Before deciding, look at where the leak is coming from. A leak at the base or under the sink isn't always the faucet's fault. It can be the mounting seal or a supply line, which are cheaper fixes than either option above. Leaking faucet repair walks through how to tell.